Sunday, November 27, 2016

Wandering boots that wander tour: Day 21 Wandering to Cape Reinga





By the numbers
7.88kms
11428 steps
200+ kms by bus
Total in 7 days: 49.92kms
My internet connection on my phone has been interesting as it gives me my exact location on the map and how far I am from a certain location I am looking at. It makes it easier to find where I am on wifi. Just not if I am riding the bike at home. The strangest thing about the hotel is that I should not be able to receive a signal at least 200 metres away. I don’t think my phone is that good, but I am not complaining as it is interesting.

The sleep was not too bad and I was woken up at 3am to a siren that went on for at least several minutes. I later found there was an accident nearby and someone had ended up in someones front yard. The person might not have survived according to the person I spoke to. The weather when i woke up looked promising and I realised that my alarm had not gone off as for some reason the dopey programmer put in the wrong day thinking it was Saturday and not Sunday. The weather reports were conflicting by saying that it would be wet by afternoon and I was more worried about the cold. I decided to pack a jumper into my day bag anyway as I had my big camera along with wet gear and water. Not long after I had gotten outside when the Dune Rider bus pulled up to pick me up right out front of the motel. On our way we were told the businesses in Kaitaia were farming and the timber industry along with the honey industry and strangely Avocado where most of it goes California.  We did see an apiary where the bee keepers were all working around them and I got a pic of one looking like he is celebrating unless he seem my camera, but I don’t think so.

We still had to pick people up as we headed towards the Ancient Kauri Kingdom where we would head off to the trip to Cape Reinga, Ninety Mile Beach and Gumdigger Park. The swamp Kauri takes at least 7 years to dry out or else they would ruin the wood. The first place we stopped at was the Gum Diggers Park. The best thing about choosing this tour was that the group knew a bit about the local history and the Gum diggers were part of that. The driver told us at one stage there was at least 6,000 people in the area digging from Croatia or that area and they intermixed with the local Maori. I knew some of this, but the prod had a bit of wire on the end to help bring up gum that had gotten caught. We were dropped off basially at the back door where we could follow the path. The first thing we could head to was a Kauri log that had been uncovered when there was a flood and the land owner was digging a drain for the water. We were warned not to stop for the 40min video on Gumdggign as we did not have the time. I did ask and they have no copies nor did they have books at that time, but I was given a name to search and I know a website anyway that could help. The park showed you holes in the ground that were the remains of gum digging and then there were tunnels, though too that i didn’t know about. It was annoying that we were rushed, but we ere also acing the tide since it was high and the afternoon would be low. The Gum digger village had houses where they lived, which was pretty sparce or bare. I had heard of a Hurdy Gurdy that was  gum washing machine. If you didn’t know the area had anything to do with Gum digging then it would just be a bare area. The land had been bought, but if it had been cleared for farming it could have had the ancient Kauri dug out, but since the original land was there with the bush you couldn’t do that. He really left it a bit too late and apparently with WWII the gum digging fell apart and vanished as varnishes were made out of something else. It could explain the dates in the National Archives and the fact that not many people knows about it.

On the way north we stopped at Rarawa Beach so that we could have a look at the beginnings of the silica sands that was used to make glass. The further you head up north the purer the sand where the sand would head down to Whangarei to make glass. We were on our way to the lunch break before heading to play in the sand by tobogganing. We passed several small towns including Te Kao that has 200 residents and three churches including a Maori religious church that I don’t know much about other than a very different building. On our way to Waitiki, which was lunch and the first or last fuel stop in the country depending on your point of view. We were passing three stations that were part the treaty settlements, which meant they were pretty big. I wasn’t sure if I had ordered lunch, but I took it anyway and would just play dumb if I got caught. I was guessing it was part of the tab. There wasn’t much to do there and after eating we headed back to where the sand dunes were for us to Taboggan down at Te Paki Stream a freshwater stream that is like quick sand so the bus couldn’t stop. When we did stop we started going up the sand dunes to go down. I had one go of it all as I was not wanting to do it twice. Up I toiled and I was thinking of recording it on the way down, but thought better and I ended up in the water. I ended up with sand up my shorts, but not from my waist area. At least I had water to clean the sand out. We stayed for a bit longer until several other bus’ turned up to do what we were doing.

Our next stop was Cape Reinga where we were not allowed to drink or eat around the lighthouse as it was a spiritual place for the Maori as thats where their spirits go before heading to the lone pohutukawa tree that has apparently never flowered. Then they head to their ancestral land past the three kings islands. We were also shown the place where the  first lighthouse once was, but it tended to be a tough place where it was on an island. Also it was manned so it made everything equally tough as you had to send supplies. One of the reasons I wanted to go back was that it was also the start of the Te Araroa trail. It would take me 9 hours to walk to the Te Paki Stream or 4 hours to get me to the Twilight Camp. Several people who left the bus here was actually walking to Whangarei from what I heard. They did see me wandering back up from the start of the track and wished me luck on the bus. I did see two of the ladies the day before coming from Whangarei actually so it was funny they were following me. I did end up down at the light house, but the wind had picked up so I needed to make sure I would not lose my hat. I had to make sure I was on time as I seemed to be the last back, but I wasn’t.

Once we were back on the road we headed back to the part of the 90 mile beach that we would run on, but we had to go back half way from where we were. Before we hit the beach the driver took us to another gum digger hall type area as known as their party town known as Houhora. Its where they spent their money and had a race track too. If you look then there is plenty to find. Luckily, we stopped for a pit stop at Te Kao for ice cream where I ran off first to have a look at a memorial to Eru Ihaka where the torch of progress was lit in the north in 1925. I am not really sure as the rest of the memorial was a world war one. I will do some research eventually. We were only doing around 20kms of the beach, but I was happy as I could see what looked to be rain coming. We did actually stop on one part for a wander where I ended up a sand dune and had to chase my escaping hat where I fell over running after it. Kinda funny, but at least I got my hat. My hat went into the dune or else I would be running down the beach. The water had been all the way up to the dune today and the grass along with the trees had been planted as a buffer to stop the sand moving in land. The end of the day had come and we headed home. I was happy that I got dropped off at the front door. The funny thing was that it actually didn’t start raining so I was good for that part in not getting wet.

Links

Dune Rider Kaitaia

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