Friday, May 24, 2019

Wandering Boots tour: Day 5 Confused in Berlin



By the numbers
29115 steps
21.86 kms
I got up early to have breaky before leaving although I couldn’t sleep anby more so thought I should get up and get moving. Breakfast cxonsisted of a ‘buffet’, but seems to be big in cheeses and yoghurts with lunch meats . I have a coulpe of sandwiches before I get ready to head off into the city or as much of the city of Berlin that I am already in. The plan for the day was to find the platform that I will  be leaving from when I am on my way to Hamburg at one of the bigger stations in Berlin. The ticket machine when I looked it up online said I could change in at least 5 mins and I had a tour of the Reichstag at 1030 and that would take me up to the dome, but apart from that I could have a little free time.

Turns out getting to the Berlin HBF was easier said that done as I had no problems there it was going down into the bowels of the station to find where I needed to get the train. That was interesting in itself and I thought it was interesting there were so many levels, but the station was bigger than I had seem anywhere before.. I did get confused over finding the direction of the local trains, but that can take some guesswork, although I wasn’t exactly worried and besides the retains usually lists the stops on the board. I left the station wondering if I should take a walk to a cemetery or do that after the tour as I would have enough time if I gave them half an hour head start. I decided that I would visit the military cemetery and then leave.

The cemetery is called Invalidenfriedof, which was established around 1748 as it was built with the invalid officers in the wars who were in a hospital. The hospital I did see today and it might be used for other purposes, the facade on the front says Augusta Hospital. That was founded by Queen Augusta funnily enough. The type of headstones does explain that they were early ones and of a military leaning cemetery.  Many of the graves were bulldozed in the 1920s and then after the Second World War more were destroyed for the Berlin wall to be built through it by the East Germans. A few graves that did survive were the ones from an early revolution that was used for the propaganda purposes of course. I did wander around a bit and thought it was interesting what I had found especially some of the extras on top like a lion and even a suit of armour.

Knowing I had an appointment to keep, I headed to the Reichstag as I did not want to be late. I wanted to visit the dinosaur museum when I returned later that day. I followed some of the old Berlin wall markings on the road and then went into the parliament area. I was nearly taken out by a tourist bus at a crossing as I was looking the wrong way again. At least they stop at crossings. I went to the Reichstag and found there was a long security line. I got stuck amongst school kids and when the line started moving, I was given a pass that said tribune, not that I knew what that was until some guy started moving everyone along and I looked at him and litereally said, ‘huh?, I am confused’. He looked at me confused and I said I was with a tour group and showed him my booked tour. He then told me I didn’t need a tribune pass as that was something else and gave me one that said HFA. I then went through security where I had to show my ID, which was my passport. Security asked me if I had a camera in my bag and I replied, yup and a powerpack. I showed them when they looked lost. I was directed to some people in blue shirts who told me to wait. I knew by this time I was late for the tour. I was wondering where everyone else was and when I again asked, I was told to wait a couple of minutes. One of the guides liked my Smaug shirt as he thought I was from New Zealand as I was wearing something from Weta Studios. I was sent outside  as I was becoming more and more lost and confused where I found the tribune group were actually there for a lecture in German. As a group we walked up to the doors where security let the various people with passes in depending on if it was blue or green. A lady escorted me to the group that was speaking English and the tour guide asked if there were any more and I said, I don’t know we all were confused.

The tour of the Reichstag was actually interesting especially when it was burnt down by whom Hitler blamed on communists, but could have been his people. The Soviets upon appearing to take the Reichstag graffitied the walls, which you can still see today and there are what looks to be bullet holes from that war. The British and French did have their go at building the Reichstag by putting money towards the construction. There are two versions of eagle used in the parliament area. Onbe looks aggressive and the other is more like an American eagle, but with them being back to back the front one now looks like it is smiling. Elections are not compulsory here either. Their parliamentarians do get fined for many things including getting kicked out of parliament, not getting to a vote on time. Their hansard type stuff is written down by person as its easier  especially when someone interrupts and the writer can name them. We were allowed up in the tower once the tour was complete and that is directly above the parliament as hot air rises and they use the mirrors to give them enough light to save on power. I could hear protests down at the Brandenburg gates, but unsure what was happening., but I was taking pics pf the view and the same again when I went up the dome.

Once I stopped for lunch, I went to look at what the protest was about and while it was loud and in German, it felt more like a concert. I stayed there for around 10 mins watching the placards bouncing up and down to the music and then I headed out up the road to find the Soviet war memorial and found that was easy to get to due to that section having no traffic as police had blocked the road. I could walk in the middle of the road without a problem I visited the memorial as I wanted to update my pictures from last time. I knew there were information panels and that would lead me to another Russian monument later that day. I took a longer walk to theSiegessaul or Victory column, which commemorates the Prussian Danish war I didn’t go up as I decided to head back.
On the way back, I found ther p[rotest group had moved and were now marching, which meant I had a clear run at the Brandenburg Gate from the middle of the road again. I did a video walking through and I thought that was pretty cool. The next thing to do was to head to that other Russian memorial after getting a ride with many protestors in the Ubahn to the HBF station and then went out one station past mine. It was on the way kinda. I was confused at this new station as there were tracks running one way and then another set above running horizontal. I was lost as to where I should be going until I realised the track I wanted was on the other side of the small station. I found my way to Treptower Park where I eventually found the statue and was impressive by the sheer scale. There were hammer and sickles everywhere and big bits of stone that told a story. Apparently on May Day every year the Russian soldiers come and sing songs. The place is also a cemetery, but I have no idea where the graves are.
Walking to another station that was closer I came across a farming village that was shoiwn on the TV a few weeks before I came over and they are a small community that all have gardens and are apparently sustainable or something like that. I found the station nearby to be simple and I was happy to find that community and seen the little houses for myself.. I had to figure out the train again, but once I was on, then I was happy as I ended up back at the hostel after a full on day. I need the rest and have some blisters on my toes that I should rest as well.

Thursday, May 23, 2019

Wandering boots tour: Day 4. Fast train to Berlin




I did sleep really well and was happy that I basically slept nearly all night. I knew I needed to leave the hostel at a timely manner as I wanted to make sure I was at the station waiting for the train to arrive. I had to strip my bed and get my deposit back for my towel. Not sure if I would stay where I am again unless it was a private room. The top bunk is high off the ground and I have a blister on my little toe from my boots. Happens to be on  the base so unsure if it was rubbing or just squeezed. This was the reason I bought bandaids, but you would think they would hit your heels instead. I am not afraid of the area at all, but I am wary of some of the people wandering around, but at no point was I feeling unsafe.

I made it to the train station with heaps of time and happy to wait where I thought I would be in the correct area. It didn’t happen to be the correct area as I had to walk to the other end of the train. I boarded the train and made my way to the other end getting a little confused, but by this time it was moving and I was lucky in this respect. I found my seat and there was a guy in a business suit sitting there keeping my seat warm for me. Without a word, I showed him my booking on the phone and he did move without a complaint. I had to put my main bag above my head, so we shall see if I can get it out. I even had a coffee delivered to my seat and I had a museli bar for breakfast that was in my bag since I left home. It was satisfying.

My phone data has come in very handy as I needed the maps to get me to my next location even though I do post pictures online as I go, but the maps are really helpful in getting around. Without then I would be stuck. I am happy for my portable powerbank too as that keeps my phone charged for I tend to take video and pictures where it hits 40% pretty fast. I have been transferring my happy snaps onto my external hard drive and do turn my data off when in a wifi zone like the hostel.

The funny thing about the ticket I have was that I I could check in and the ticket said that I would not be checked. I was checked by a conductor, although I think it was because I was in first class. It didn’t worry me as I would later have another coffee and a curry wurst delivered to my seat without having to go to the food carriage. That was really my lunch and that was around an hour before I went into Berlin. The train went all the way into my station, which was the end of the line for the Frankfurt line. The main station is called the HBF and I know I have to go there on the day I go to Frankfurt. I seen the main Berlin station and it was huge. I nearly went there later on, but I ended up doing other things. The hostel would not let me check in until 3pm and I had to store my luggage somewhere. My main bag didn’t fit in the locker so that went to the train station’s locker and the others were stored in the hostels locker. Weird, I know, but it worked out even if it was annoying. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do and I checked out the lines that went to the city even if they were all confusing as the local lines were next to the long distance. I decided to leave that until the next day and see the West Side Gallery, which is the old Berlin Wall in its original place, but artists had painted over them in the 1990s. The area between the wall and the river was known as the death strip where people would be shot trying to escape. I ended up at the Berlin Wall museum and I nearly didn’t stop until some random guy to do with the museum stopped me and told me about a discount. I told him about the Berlin card and he said I got a further discount by showing both. I was going to look at the music venue for later, but that changed my mind. I would have a look at the museum. It was about the East German side that were on and had info about the drowning and included interviews from the people who were guards and escapees. There was even a bit about the bridge of spies that included the Tom Hanks movie based on the real thing. I knew bits and pieces of the Cold War and was happy to see the beginnings the middle and the end. Pink Floyd even was involved with a concert not long afterwards and his song was being played too.

The museum did kill time before I had to go back, but I went to find the music venue. I found where I had to go including lights that were basically paper machete with layers on the outside. I took the ubahn one station away as I wanted to avoid walking near dodgy traffic lights and even if there were no cars on the road, you had cyclists heading toward you on the side. I wasn’t sure if I really wanted to head back to that area later on even though I headed back to the hostel and checked in. I met up with two Aussies in the hostel from Perth. They had taken the overnight train in Amsterdam, although they had to change trains as there was a problem with one.

I showered and sorted out my gear before wandering to the Lido music venue. I had a better look in the area where I had been worried about and looked it up on my phone. Seems the area is known for young people and has a population of 12 thousand. It never said anything about feeling unsafe. I stayed until the band that I wanted to see played and I walked back to the hostel before it got too dark and late as I have plans for the next day.

Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Wandering Boots tour Day 3: Wiesbaden and a few cemeteries



By the numbers
Steps 26209
KMs 19.48

The night before after two beers, I ended up shutting down by going to bed and starting to write the rest of the blog around 4am and annoying some people in the room. I know people would not like to hear the click clack of a keyboard for an epic post from yours truley. I think a pillow would cross my face eventually. That was the start of my day, although I knoew  what I was wanting to do. I was waiting for the weather and breakfast to see what was going to happen. I had two sandwiches for breaky and two coffee while I was at it and looking at the trains to Weisbaden. The train system is interesting. You have the trams, the Sbahn which is regional trains, Ubahn, which is kind of underground in places and then the long distance trains. I found a ticket machine, which I sorted out a day pass with return. I don’t know if my pass would work that far out, but I made sure I would not be caught out. Crossing the road here is interesting. Some places you put your hand on a yellow sensor and in others you just have to wait for them to automatically change. Different and confusing all at the same time.

Not knowing much about the train I caught, I headed into Wiesbaden and part way along the screen telling me where our station was came up with additional information about the bus network. I became confused and watching the screen after one station they vanished. Lets say getting off and catching a bus was not part of my plan at all. Once the train got to the city, I made sure I knew the direction I needed to go as I wanted the cemetery as Manfred Von Richtthofen otherwise known as the Red Baron in WW1 a fighter Ace for Germany. It was easy following my map as I was counting my blessings for having data to do that and it was great to navigate myself around the country without getting stuck and wondering what the hell.

I found the cemetery without any problems and there was even a map to show me where to find the grave. I followed the directions and the grave had the whole family there. I found other graves nearby that were basically going to be recycled and I found a few like that. Something I had never seen before, but they were spread throughout the cemetery. I had seen the workers floating around doing their thing and there was quite a few gardening staff working, although it was good to see. Going for a wander I found some WW1 grave stones, but these are different to the white ones and there were a few from 1914, 1915 and 1919. I came across a Belgium princess by accident and several other high class people and even British soldiers from well after the war. I followed a squirrel for a couple of metres, but it could literally teleport up trees. By this stage my phone was nearly dead and I was getting a top up with my powerbank. That was the best thing I had ever bought and was working really well as I walked along.

I headed back to town as I was going to get the rail back obviously. I went another way just to see where I would end up. I nearly made a huge mistake and nearly got skittled. I went to cross the road, I looked right and then took a step, I looked to my left and went of shit as I was missed by a car. I was looking the wrong way and I learnt my lesson after that, but I was a little bit off with traffic from then on and I was being careful. I don’t want to explain that on my second day of my trip. The driver never tooted at me or anything. I got to the station without any more dramas and had KFC for lunch before heading back to Frankfurt.

On my return, I was going to visit the old Jewish cemetery even though I needed a key and thought differently when I turned up. I could have gotten the key and I decided next time I visit, I would. The entire outside of the cemetery along the wall had the names, numbers and the concentration camp the person had been in when they died. From the gate the cemetery looked interesting, but that would be next time. I had seen another cemetery on the map and that was the Frankfurt Hauptfriedhof. I jumped off at the German library to use the loo and went from there. I found the cemetery to be a lot larger than I had thought and I never got to see the whole thing as it was late afternoon by this time and I had walked what I could. I found a few huge grave stones and one memorial to the Hindenburg that had caught fire in 1937. I think that was one of the last time airships were used. I decided then that this was the time that I would leave and I ended up at the station where I caught the Ubahn back to the Frankfurt station where I wandered into a supermarket for dinner. I wasn’t really feeling that hungry, but I got a sandwich and two wraps tro satisfy the urges..

I think it was a busy enough day and my last in Frankfurt as I head into Berlin tomorrow. This includes going to a band that night and hopefully it is not like Frankfurt. I have been staying away from the Euros clubs, which I learnt we have one next door to the hostel. These are Brothels without madams. Bouncers seem to sit outside keeping an eye on trouble. I just avoid them entirely as I walked past and taking pictures from the comfort of my side of the street. They all seem to be sleeping in the mornings as I havnt seen one. I am looking forward to going to Berlin again and this time by train.

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

Wandering Boots Day 2: Museums galore



By the numbers
2 museums
14.41 kms
19653 steps

I woke up in the early hours of the morning after I had crashed out around 11pm the night before. After a long flight that is a given. The day was going to be another wet day and I woke to the rain. I was unsure if there was going to be a cold snap outside or not, but I was prepared with my jumper and I needed to try out my new brolly. I had a token for one free breakfast.

The breakfast was free coffee and food with the token I was given the night before. It was kinda basic, but pretty filling. I was worried about the pass that I had printed off that could get wet in the weather. I ended up making sure it would be covered in plastic from a folder. I guessed that would protect it from harm. I wanted to head to the train station to make sure I did not need to activate the pass. I did learn that no you don’t, but also you could hop onto everything without scanning the ticket unless inspectors were on board.

The information centre was in the train station and I wandered around in awe. I learnt how easy it would be to catch a train to Berlin, which will be soon. Each diagram matches the train and destination like train 874, carriage and the red dot marks where you are on the platform. The timetables are helpful too. I went for a look to orientate myself and understand the system. Now that I know and can sort out the railway lines on Germany, I can sort that out when I am there next time after this trip. Of course I went wandering like a gobsmacked person looking around the station and it was good to see how everything worked.

Back into the wet weather as I wanted to visit the Natural History museum and I wantred the tram that would get me cosest to it. On the way I did get distracted by some park as there was a little buit of water, but they do make some interesting arty farrtty entrances to the Ubahn stations, which is like the underground tube stations that run through London. The public transport seems to be really good here. I am thankful that I have a travel sim as I would never have moved around the city without any problems or know where I am. As I got closer to the museum, I wondered if I would know it when I seen it, but I did not need to wonder when its a lovely old building with dinosaurs out the front. Across the road is a TRex and outside the museum is a diplodocus. Kids had the same idea as I did to visit as well. The Frankfurt card gave me a 50% discount and in I went.

A website last year that secured my visit to Frankfurt was about the dinosaur museums sand mentioned a Stegosaurus. Even though the original is elsewhere, I got to see the cast. Though never fear, they had plenty of skeletons that were originals especially the water creatures of the past. There are fossil fields in Germany that are very rich in findings and a UNESCO heritage area called Essen I think it is that the findings of many different animals and plants from the time of the Gondwana type land masses. I do like how the displays were a mix of English and German. They also tell you the basics of the animals and where the original is located. There were heaps of children chattering away and ?I had to tolerate them, but they did make a bit of noise. The natural world part had animals we know today and even a display on Lucy, but unsure if these were casts or not. Lucy was found in the 1960s and was an early man of sorts. I came across a scientist lab of sorts that had brains in jars, breeding anatomy including penis’ in jars. I used Google translate on them and was going uh huh. I came across a display of Archaeopteryx, feathered birds of the dinosaur age. They had the 11th one that was found and is being loaned from a private collection. It shows the feathers around the bird and nearby shows casts of the others, which are kept in London and Berlin. The First is in London and was found in the 1800s. I am glad that I came along.

The next museum on the list was the cartoon museum, but I was distracted by the university grounds and wearing a UNE jumper I might have fit right into the area.. I decided to look at the botanic gardens as they are usually free to visit and I thought I could quickly use the loo there. I found a map outside of the Frankfurt area that I am currently in and included a guard tower called the Bockenheimer Warte. It was part of the defences from around the 1400s. I was torn about seeing that or the botanic gardens as it was lunch time and I was getting hungry. The botanic gardens would cost me to walk inside and they had turn styles that anchored my doubts to visit. I wanted the other museum anyway so turned around to head to the guard tower. Along the way I came across some street art, but wanted a closer look by going through the ubahn area I found myself in a huge pedestrian area before you get down to the trains. I poped out the end I wanted and found the street art to be the station entrance. It looked like a train carriage had started to come through the street level. I found something to eat, but was unsure what the bread thing was apart from it was a bakery item and food.

A closer look at Bockenheimer Warte meant I walked a little further up the road and got stopped by some guy who I wasn’t sure what he was doing until he told me he was a political party guy. A uni student and since I couldn’t vote I was free to go with a high five. He did ask if I wanted to move to Germany though. Nice guy even if it was still a mystery, but he spoke English. I had a quick look at a warehouse building outside, but cannot remember the name or if it was a theatre building. I went down to the Ubahn station at Bockenheimer Warte and wanted to get out at another one. It was fast and spoke English and German too. I popped out at the Konstablerwache station and it looked like a shopping area. Sistracted again I followed my map and seen the museum of arts and then a church that I had a look at before finding a clown outside a building. I was near an archaeology dig for the archaeology museum showing roman ruins and a palace that had something to do with Charlemagne  who was a king in the early 800s area. I made a video of the walk through and headed to the Town Hall and was stunned by the beauty there as it was pretty painted houses and the town hall. I wandered through and past the history museum heading to the cartoon museum that I found was closed.

Turning around I made my way to the history museum where the guy seemed to be annoyed I had the pass that gives me 50% off. I stopped for coffee and went into the museum, Frankfurt has had interesting times being the centre of banking including after the war where the Americans set up banks. At first I thought I would be stuck with german written displays until I found they also had English. The city was bombed heavily during World War 2 and there were attempts during the clean up to repurpose the rubble which is a good idea. There were stories about several people like Margot Frank, sister to Anne Frank and what happened to them and several other people including one boy who was part of the Hitler Youth, but defied some of what they were doing like growing his hair long. The old town area, which is the town hall was heavily bombed and there has been many debates including knocking the remains down. Though they have rebuilt and have been many protests in Frankfurt’s history including the expansion of Frankfurt airport. A small town was built in the woods by protestors, but that didn’t stop the expansion. I was impressed by a display that was spinning slowly as you were reading the information so you would exit elsewhere on the same floor just facing a different direction. I found that kings and queens had been crowned in the city too. One of the last displays I looked at was a huge diorama of the city. I kept on kicking the table by accident, but I was not the only person to do so. We all got looks and should watch where we are walking. The toll tower was the last area that I went to look in and it was an actual old toll tower. It was where the people in authority would collect money from crossing the nearby bridge and funnily enough used as a clock tower to, so it could warn people of events like invasion, the time and during executions.

I thought about going for a longer walk, but realised it was getting late and I could get food at the hostel like a pizza. I didn’t want to be near the streets in the dark even though nothing would happen. Instead of catching the very regular public transport, I walked back into the hostel area. I found the banking district was interesting, but I had my goal of returning to the room before dark. I followed my handy online map that showed me that I was getting closer. Once I was in the hostel I had to buzz the door. How to get in is to buzz the front door for entry and then you show your card with room number on it so you can then use your card to enter your room. The key card runs out at 12pm on the day you leave. Considering the area and that the reception is 24 hours, thats what I call good. I ended up having two beers with my pizza and that hit me like a mule a touch. I ended up going to bed not long after I started writing my blog at 8pm. I thought an hour sleep would be good, but I turned my alarm off and slept until around 4am where I decided now was the time to finish my blog. Maybe not in my room though as the keyboard kinda annoyed one girl, but polite not to tell me to f off.

Monday, May 20, 2019

Wandering boots tour Part 2: Singapore to Frankfurt



By the numbers
Walked 9.49kms – Changi Airport
It was a little bit of a hike in terminal 3 for my plane, but I made sure I was early and was waiting when the security guys turned up. I had filled a bottle of water only to find that I had to empty it as it was a security checkpoint. The change airport immigration into the terminals is really easy, but before boarding each plane you have to head through security.

The plane was not actually that full at all. I had nearly an entire row to myself and I was happy to take my boots off each time I sat down. 13 hours on a plane is long enough to wear shoes. I was watching movies the entire time I was on the plane and I got some sleep, but it wasn’t that much. I was able to fill my bottle up on the plane after asking the hostess and she was happy to do so. I was happy that they seemed to look after everyone especially when they had plenty of muffins. The movies I watched included Deadpool once upon a time, Bumblebee and an Astrerix movie.

By the time the plane landed in Frankfurt it was wet and apparently around 14 c. Flights had been cancelled due to weather and there were suggestions of getting the train to the other locations.. I had no problem getting through the gate even if I was asked why I was coming to Germany and for how long. The train ride was easy too as I had wondered about that. I found it to be easy so far and it got me to the main station.

The fun fact about the area I am staying in is the Red Light district with clubs lining the street and I got caught by a lady who started chatting to me outside one such club. There were three people outside and the guy sitting outside told me I could look for free. I promised that I would be back later. I really don’t think they realised the bags I had were heavy and I had only just arrived. The lady said  she liked my accent. I did prtomise once I dropped my bags off that I would visit. The hostel was pretty easy to find and while it has the bare minimum, it is somewhere to sleep and I have a treasure chest that locks. Tomorrow I shall jump onto the tram and explore the city and hopefuilly the weather improves.