Boots tour of Sydney Day 4: Fort Denison and Watson Bay

Steps 26738 and 18.42kms

Today was the day that I had a tour, which is the hop on and hop off one where you have 24 hours to get anywhere you want on the tour list from Circular Quay, Darling Harbour, Manly, Watsons Bay and Fort Denison. If I had only done the Fort Denison part then it would have been $20 return when the tour cost $45. I took the chance by booking myself on the tour so it would have been a good bargain. I did allow myself to sleep in as I needed it and it was another fine day to get out and about. I did find last night that I had only bought one jumper so I would be stuck with the one smelly thing for the week. I hate to think what the sweaty smell would be like.

I had been meaning to post a letter that I had with me and kept forgetting it as I had it in my bag. I had time to kill before going on the boat tour as there was a certain time that I could catch the ferry that would arrive at the fort. I wanted the letter to be special as it was going to leave the Sydney GPO at Martin Place. I wanted to visit the lane ways through the city on my way back to Circular Quay as I had plenty of time. I actually found the entrance, well I hope it was the entrance for The Tank Stream that was sydney’s original water source that is now under the streets. I hope its under the Australia mall / plaza thngy in the city, but could be one of many. Angel Place had a bird soundscape with sounds of birds that were no longer present in the city. Abercrombie Lane was a narrow land showing you what it could have been like in the past with no natural light. Plus there was a cafe there that had ironing boards for tables. I did go in search for the Australian stock exchange and sat there for around 10 or so watching all the names of the shares and how our dollar was faring against the other currencies. Across the road, which as Bridge Street happened to have been the first lumber yard now a busy road.

Time had caught up with me and I was waiting for the ferry to pick us up after it visited some other places first. My first trip would take around 10 mins where I could get a tour of the tower at Fort Denison known to be the a Martello tower. The British built in during the 1800s and had a canon on the roof, but as it was being built it had three cannon installed so the three that were there are actually the originals. The bottom floor was the gunpowder room followed by the canons and then the lighthouse of the roof. Apparently every Tuesday was practice day for all the fortifications in the harbour. The island was once known as pinchgut where well before anything was built there prisoners were placed there for punishment and a body was even hung on the island to stop people from being punished so would have been the sight for many arrivals in the early days. The island even got hit by the USS Chicago during WWII and there was barely any damage. The fortification lived up to its name. The island also has a restaurant and a museum about the past too. Its funny when the person in charge has to tell people feet on the ground so they don’t damage the canons or the sandstone walls. At least they do listen even though there is a sign telling you not to do it. The mens toilets have a fireplace that I did not notice the first time, but this room was once an officers bedroom. Fort Denison also is the tide gauge that measures the tide in the harbour though you will always see Fort Denison listed on the tide charts.

It wasn’t that big an island, but worth visiting and my next destination I wanted to visit was Watsons Bay. The commentary as we approached the dock had my interest as I was wanting to head to Hornsby lighthouse and I could see another that was mentioned as Macquarie light house. I wanted to visit that one as well. I had a quick look at my map before leaving. I could not see a toilet, but I used a Google search that found me a website. I found loo nearby, which I was happy about as Watsons Bay was very busy. Once I was refreshed, I stopped for lunch and watched a pelican stand by the restaurant door wanting to be fed. It even grizzled like a dog wanting food. Luckily I had cash on me as thats the only thing this place would take. Once I was sitting and eating I had a seagull take a bit of fish out of my hands right before I was going to eat it. I was shocked that they were so aggressive. I had that from sparrows, but nothing like these ones today. They all hung around and even got to my feet as I dropped a little bit. Then I was being eyed very closely and one came close enough that I swiped at it and could feel feathers as it got out of the way.

Once lunch was finished I wandered off in the direction of where Hornsby lighthouse would be. I had a trusty map that I was following and made my way to Laings Point where it supposedly was the first place for Governor king to land in Australia, but this place was also the location of on spot where the booms for the WWII nets were placed for anti submarine stuff. Did include a wheel house that opened the gates to let the boats through. I thought that was interesting and made my way down to Camp Cove and up he hill from there. I thought there was more than one exit, but there was only one as the navy base was up there too. On my way up to the lighthouse I found the local nudist beach. There were two ladies sitting on the stairs very quiet and I went down the stairs and went back up fast as I seen a nude man standing on the rocks below. I found it was really true. There really was a nudist beach though several metres away there was a couple with their kids though they all had clothes on. I was more interested in the lighthouse and the fortifications that had been built in the 1800s. So there was a huge ring of defence. I learnt the Hornsby lighthouse had been built after the Dunbar had been wrecked. It was a warm day though I still kept my jumper on and that included my jacket as I had very little space in my bag. I had to walk down past the nudist beach again, but drones are banned and I think its a combination of the beach and the navy base.

Something that I seen on my map gave me a little bit of interest was an area called The Gap. It has a notorious reputation of people falling off sometimes on purpose. I wanted to look at this area of cliff before heading onwards. I came across phones that told you to call Lifeline if you are troubled and something I had never seen before and there was a huge around of cameras watching. I don’t think there is one particular spot you would call The Gap as it was a huge area. I did find it interesting to explore some of it, but time was moving on so I wanted to visit the lighthouses before it got dark. I went up the hill with the notion that there would be a huge monument to the Dunbar wreck and it was a plaque in the ground. Along the way there was a historic quarry that that was fenced off that i don’t know anything about. Nearby as I was doing a loop to be taken in front of the lighthouse was something unexpected. I had come across a cemetery that I learnt was by the name of South Head Cemetery. I did have a quick wander though I was worried about being caught in an unfamiliar place after dark. I found the Packer Family like Sir Frank. I did find several others that were not familiar, but that would be a trip for another time. I found the front of the Macquarie lighthouse and found it was the first lighthouse to be built in Australia in 1818 I think it was. I seem to have a thing for finding the first lighthouses. The other one I think is the modern one, but I headed down the hill to the park where the wharf was to catch the next ferry though I thought I would have to wait 40 mins for. It was lucky that I had not gone looking for the old tram tracks or line.

I had looked at the timetable and the boat had been and gone. I hoped that like this morning it was running a touch late. I was right as it was 5pm and it was gone at 4.55 and was running behind the time. I didn’t have to wait for a while so I jumped onto the ferry and it took me back to a darkening Sydney via Taronga Zoo. I was happy not to have missed the ferry and it dropped us off at the commissioners stairs so I did not need to walk all the way round to The Rocks. I did stop to find out when The Rocks museum opened as I had a bit of time before the plane and couldn’t find anything on the website. Since I was actually across the road, which I should have just done anyway. I found it opened at 10pm the checkout time for me so I will go there after sleeping in a little and checking out by putting my bags in lockers. An easy plan instead of walking around half the city and then rushing as I am late.