Boots tour of Sydney Day 4: Fort Denison and Watson Bay

Steps 26738 and 18.42kms

Today was the day that I had a tour, which is the hop on and hop off one where you have 24 hours to get anywhere you want on the tour list from Circular Quay, Darling Harbour, Manly, Watsons Bay and Fort Denison. If I had only done the Fort Denison part then it would have been $20 return when the tour cost $45. I took the chance by booking myself on the tour so it would have been a good bargain. I did allow myself to sleep in as I needed it and it was another fine day to get out and about. I did find last night that I had only bought one jumper so I would be stuck with the one smelly thing for the week. I hate to think what the sweaty smell would be like.

I had been meaning to post a letter that I had with me and kept forgetting it as I had it in my bag. I had time to kill before going on the boat tour as there was a certain time that I could catch the ferry that would arrive at the fort. I wanted the letter to be special as it was going to leave the Sydney GPO at Martin Place. I wanted to visit the lane ways through the city on my way back to Circular Quay as I had plenty of time. I actually found the entrance, well I hope it was the entrance for The Tank Stream that was sydney’s original water source that is now under the streets. I hope its under the Australia mall / plaza thngy in the city, but could be one of many. Angel Place had a bird soundscape with sounds of birds that were no longer present in the city. Abercrombie Lane was a narrow land showing you what it could have been like in the past with no natural light. Plus there was a cafe there that had ironing boards for tables. I did go in search for the Australian stock exchange and sat there for around 10 or so watching all the names of the shares and how our dollar was faring against the other currencies. Across the road, which as Bridge Street happened to have been the first lumber yard now a busy road.

Time had caught up with me and I was waiting for the ferry to pick us up after it visited some other places first. My first trip would take around 10 mins where I could get a tour of the tower at Fort Denison known to be the a Martello tower. The British built in during the 1800s and had a canon on the roof, but as it was being built it had three cannon installed so the three that were there are actually the originals. The bottom floor was the gunpowder room followed by the canons and then the lighthouse of the roof. Apparently every Tuesday was practice day for all the fortifications in the harbour. The island was once known as pinchgut where well before anything was built there prisoners were placed there for punishment and a body was even hung on the island to stop people from being punished so would have been the sight for many arrivals in the early days. The island even got hit by the USS Chicago during WWII and there was barely any damage. The fortification lived up to its name. The island also has a restaurant and a museum about the past too. Its funny when the person in charge has to tell people feet on the ground so they don’t damage the canons or the sandstone walls. At least they do listen even though there is a sign telling you not to do it. The mens toilets have a fireplace that I did not notice the first time, but this room was once an officers bedroom. Fort Denison also is the tide gauge that measures the tide in the harbour though you will always see Fort Denison listed on the tide charts.

It wasn’t that big an island, but worth visiting and my next destination I wanted to visit was Watsons Bay. The commentary as we approached the dock had my interest as I was wanting to head to Hornsby lighthouse and I could see another that was mentioned as Macquarie light house. I wanted to visit that one as well. I had a quick look at my map before leaving. I could not see a toilet, but I used a Google search that found me a website. I found loo nearby, which I was happy about as Watsons Bay was very busy. Once I was refreshed, I stopped for lunch and watched a pelican stand by the restaurant door wanting to be fed. It even grizzled like a dog wanting food. Luckily I had cash on me as thats the only thing this place would take. Once I was sitting and eating I had a seagull take a bit of fish out of my hands right before I was going to eat it. I was shocked that they were so aggressive. I had that from sparrows, but nothing like these ones today. They all hung around and even got to my feet as I dropped a little bit. Then I was being eyed very closely and one came close enough that I swiped at it and could feel feathers as it got out of the way.

Once lunch was finished I wandered off in the direction of where Hornsby lighthouse would be. I had a trusty map that I was following and made my way to Laings Point where it supposedly was the first place for Governor king to land in Australia, but this place was also the location of on spot where the booms for the WWII nets were placed for anti submarine stuff. Did include a wheel house that opened the gates to let the boats through. I thought that was interesting and made my way down to Camp Cove and up he hill from there. I thought there was more than one exit, but there was only one as the navy base was up there too. On my way up to the lighthouse I found the local nudist beach. There were two ladies sitting on the stairs very quiet and I went down the stairs and went back up fast as I seen a nude man standing on the rocks below. I found it was really true. There really was a nudist beach though several metres away there was a couple with their kids though they all had clothes on. I was more interested in the lighthouse and the fortifications that had been built in the 1800s. So there was a huge ring of defence. I learnt the Hornsby lighthouse had been built after the Dunbar had been wrecked. It was a warm day though I still kept my jumper on and that included my jacket as I had very little space in my bag. I had to walk down past the nudist beach again, but drones are banned and I think its a combination of the beach and the navy base.

Something that I seen on my map gave me a little bit of interest was an area called The Gap. It has a notorious reputation of people falling off sometimes on purpose. I wanted to look at this area of cliff before heading onwards. I came across phones that told you to call Lifeline if you are troubled and something I had never seen before and there was a huge around of cameras watching. I don’t think there is one particular spot you would call The Gap as it was a huge area. I did find it interesting to explore some of it, but time was moving on so I wanted to visit the lighthouses before it got dark. I went up the hill with the notion that there would be a huge monument to the Dunbar wreck and it was a plaque in the ground. Along the way there was a historic quarry that that was fenced off that i don’t know anything about. Nearby as I was doing a loop to be taken in front of the lighthouse was something unexpected. I had come across a cemetery that I learnt was by the name of South Head Cemetery. I did have a quick wander though I was worried about being caught in an unfamiliar place after dark. I found the Packer Family like Sir Frank. I did find several others that were not familiar, but that would be a trip for another time. I found the front of the Macquarie lighthouse and found it was the first lighthouse to be built in Australia in 1818 I think it was. I seem to have a thing for finding the first lighthouses. The other one I think is the modern one, but I headed down the hill to the park where the wharf was to catch the next ferry though I thought I would have to wait 40 mins for. It was lucky that I had not gone looking for the old tram tracks or line.

I had looked at the timetable and the boat had been and gone. I hoped that like this morning it was running a touch late. I was right as it was 5pm and it was gone at 4.55 and was running behind the time. I didn’t have to wait for a while so I jumped onto the ferry and it took me back to a darkening Sydney via Taronga Zoo. I was happy not to have missed the ferry and it dropped us off at the commissioners stairs so I did not need to walk all the way round to The Rocks. I did stop to find out when The Rocks museum opened as I had a bit of time before the plane and couldn’t find anything on the website. Since I was actually across the road, which I should have just done anyway. I found it opened at 10pm the checkout time for me so I will go there after sleeping in a little and checking out by putting my bags in lockers. An easy plan instead of walking around half the city and then rushing as I am late.

Boots Sydney tour Day 3

32949 steps and 22.70kms

I started the day off as another early one where I wanted to visit Liverpool before I get all the major rush hour type people. I did have a time to meet another friend around midday in the city so I wanted to make sure I had enough time. The weather was actually not cloudy at all and it was still cold when I went rushing down to the train. I still had time to wait before it came.

The ride to Liverpool was pleasant and the train did not really fill up at that time of morning. I knew I was to find a pioneers cemetery, but couldn’t remember where it was other than being at one side of the Westfield shopping centre. I was able to find the cemetery after I got turned around outside after going inside the building. Go in one entrance and out another does screw with your head. The cemetery was easy to find though it just shows up as park land. At least it was right next door and I didn’t have to hunt around too much. It had been turned into a pioneers park in the 1970s and the graves were moved around. I am not fully sure of the story, but it looks like a park without the play equipment. I does seem to be well looked after and I don’t know why cemeteries always seem to be near the large shopping centres. I wanted to get back to the city for my lunch appointment and along the way I found a park that was used for the gallows and public land that was huge until Liverpool encroached onto it. Always good to see stories like this as it gives insights about the past.

Once on the train, I wanted to stop in Redfern as I had wanted to stop there sometime to check it out. I was not sure what I wanted to see. I wanted to look for the old mortuary station and had seen a bunch of buildings that might resemble that. Walking back I found some interesting things, but I started coming across the strange part of town and doubled back. I soon found what I had thought was the train mortuary station where they had once transported the dead to Rookwood cemetery by on a dedicated train line. What I had in fact found was the Australian technology park. It was like the Ipswich trainyard museum, but more open and I think you can wander around. The building I had seen was actually the supervisors / managers office. It was cooler than I had thought though time was running away. I had found what I had wanted on the map so wandered off in the direction of the station. There was plenty of art work in the area dedicated to the aboriginal people including a soldier that I had seen online somewhere. I found that I had to walk towards Central station and got distracted by the Greek church next to Prince Albert park that I later found was the original Redfern station. The mortuary station was found and I was surprised to find the gates were locked so I couldn’t get in there. I could look, but not really touch. I did get lost trying to find the restaurant that I was suggested to visit like walking the wrong way only to double back.

Garry the uni guy that I was meeting told me he would be late and I was happy to get the extra time so I waited outside the restaurant that Google had sent me to, which was Malaysian Hawker food. I was told he would be a touch later and then he was outside. I said I am there too and then came the realisation that I had gone to the wrong restaurant and I was given the correct address. I was meant to be at George street and not the corner of Liverpool and Sussex. Luckily I was only 6 mins away. I couldn’t believe I had done that and Garry was with Yuki who had come along for lunch too. I got to try some different Malaysian foods like Tofu with the main dish of salt and pepper squid. I didn’t mind sharing some with the others as they had shared theirs with me including the Rotti bread. I wasn’t a fan of the tofu at all. After lunch The trio went off to follow the goods line with most of the line still being visible. The line ran from near Central station all the way out to Darling Harbour and went into what is now the Powerhouse museum The line runs at the back of the Ulimo ABC building though I now know where that is.

After being showed the line we went for a long wander to where the old wharves used to be in the area that is called Darling Island that was once separate from the rest of the harbour, but had been cut down and filled in. This was where some of the passenger ships during the 10 pound pom days had arrived. It was a dirty place with trains and other pollution running around in the area. These days it is cleaner and the media like Channel 7 and Fairfax media live. I was shown around Pyrmont where the sandstone had been taken to build a few of the buildings in early Sydney. By this time it was starting to get dark, but still plenty to see. I was not in any hurry to get back to the hostel. I was even shown the swing bridge that is under the ANZAC bridge that was once the main road out to the other side of the city. I was told the fish markets are the one place to get fish and chips so I should try that sometime. I was shown plenty of historic locations on my wander with Garry and Yuki. I did catch the tram back to The star casino where I could catch the ferry back to Circular Quay, which would have involved less walking in the dark than I needed. We did think we were going to miss the ferry, but it was a Manly express that leaves from the Darling Harbour side. I will most defiantly meet up with Garry again for a tour of the area when in Sydney again.

Tomorrow means to be my last full day in the city and I will be doing a tour for the day so will hopefully get a few great shots of the city from Fort Denison and Watson Bay.

Boots tour of Sydney Day 2. Rose Bay and Darling Harbour

Steps 25759 and 17.87kms

Today was an early start where I wanted to get a ferry as early as possible to get to Rose Bay and then later on for a trip to use my museum pass that I had won from a magazine. The alarm went off and I made myself ready before heading off. I actually just missed the ferry that I wanted to catch so had to wait a short time for the next one to arrive. I was not worried in the slightest as I was to have breakfast with Dawn who I had not seen for a while. When I caught up to them even though the weather was trying hard to rain, but succeeding in being cold instead. Lucy was happy to see me and jumped up on me with her paws on my shoulders though a Greyhound is a much bigger dog than a small on like Jez at home. She is an assistance dog so is allowed into shops even though people will do a double take at.

After being coffeed and eaten, I went to show Dawn something I had found online by accident. There was a building called Fenliegh Castle that is a heritage listed building, but not open for people to look around.  We did find it and there were spectacular views of the harbour. I was happy to have found this place and there was a huge cathedral that was further up the road. Dawn left me to walk up alone though on my way I found I went Emma’s Well that was a water supply at one stage though I don’t know much about it other than what was there on the plaque. A very random find I had not expected and one to look at. I found the cathedral further up, but also found it to be part of some Sacred hearts private type school so taking photos might get me into trouble. I did look around before heading back down the hill towards the ferry that I hoped would be waiting. I found there was still some time before the ferry so went walking along the promenade before turning back. I stayed inside the ferry watching the rain hit the windows.

Once off the ferry I was going to head to Darling Harbour via The Rocks. Thing was once I got to the end of Argyle street, I became lost and had to google the map up to see where to go. On the way I took several little lanes that took me behind buildings with some interesting views and came out at Kent street, where I took another lane that had me on the street I wanted. I had seen a Gas lane that turned out to be where the Australian gaslight company was first built. Nearby was a removalist called Frogs with Kermit attached to the bullbar. I did find that I could not walk any further along as there was nowhere to walk other down a row of stairs to where Barangaroo was being built. Once I had turned back I had noticed someone had dropped a card of some sort and realised it was my Opal card that came out with my phone when taking pictures. Thinking I was lost, I soon found my way to Darling Harbour though I was on the wrong side. It was starting to rain half way across the bridge to the maritime museum. Luckily a uni friend Tracey was waiting for me inside.

We went to see one of the boats which was the HMAS Advance that was still a working vessel built in the 1960s, but was named the Ambush on the TV show Patrol Boat. It was a short tour before we stopped for lunch and then went onto the other vessels the Onslow, submarine and the destroyer HMAS Vampire. It turned out that the Onslow had before being decommissioned done war games with the US off Hawaii and won against the latest ship the USS Carl Wilson or something like that name. Later on the Onslow came back with a broom on its mast meaning a clean sweep. I thought this story was funny. I took Tracey into the main part of the museum as she had not realised the boats were not just the only attractions as there was more inside. It was not long before Tracey had to go though we both had studied at the uni about the history of the navy in Oz though seeing things like Fort Macquarie and Man o War wharf as they once were was interesting. There was the exhibition about the finding of Longatude, which came with a huge reward. I lost my hat in the exhibition as it was in my pocket and I found it again at the front counter to the exhibition. I thanked the people for finding it. Other bits included the use of convict ships, the anchor of the Sirus that was wrecked and even the story of the Batavia that sunk off WA. Time was slowly running out and I had to move on.

I didn’t want to get caught in the dark so went over to where the Queen Victoria building is so that I could visit a book shop I liked. I didn’t buy anything though. I did get caught in the dark with a crowd of people and the light rail construction that they are doing. I was not too worried as i knew what direction the hostel was so I couldn’t really get lost. There were maps like at Martin Place where I could make sure, but once I seen a train at circular Quay then I knew I was close enough to my destination. I needed food before I could relax in my room with two Germans and an Indian bloke from Mumbai studying in Baltimore. I like having a 4 bed dorm as there are not too many people or beds. A place to relax and use for sleep before heading elsewhere. Tomorrow I am heading to Liverpool to have a look around before going back into the city for lunch near Haymarket with another person from uni. Sounds like it will be a busy day so should be fun.

Boots tour of Sydney: Day 1

Steps: 13177 and 9.12kms

The day that I was to head for Sydney had come. It was also the day of a very cold snap at home with it being 8C outside and 13C inside. I had to get up early to catch the plane as I wanted to use the tickets I had won to the Maritime museum through a history magazine I subscribe to. I think have won too many things from them and should be careful unless someone realises. I did seem to be able to keep my trip away pretty quiet and I don’t think many people realised I was going somewhere. I helped mum with several things before I headed off. I was actually feeling a bit tired still though functional. I was spending 3 full days in the city of Sydney and head home on my birthday. The people before me in the bag drop line were golfers and there were three of them. At the drop my main bag weighed 11kgs and my cabin bag was 4 kilos so I was lighter than i should be so it was good.

The plane boarded when it should so there was no delay with Jetstar at all. While in the air, I was actually having a snooze, which is unheard of. I think I just needed an extra hour of shut eye and I was getting it. Think the day before had caught up to me with the early start. Getting off the plane was interesting as it felt warmer in Sydney than it was at home, plus the bags were already out and about when I got downstairs. I was wondering if I should get an Opal card, which is like the Oyster or even Gocard on the Gold Coast for the train and bus. The line was long and I thought better as I got a normal ticket. The travel tickets I wanted had been retired earlier in the year so I had to get other ideas on getting around Sydney. The city was actually busy when I got off at Circular Quay and even when I headed into The Rocks though I was warming up especially when I was still wearing a thermal. I went to my favourite accomadation in the city at The Rocks and found I might need to wait until 2pm to check in, but my room was ready when the cleaner walked past 5 mins later. Once in my room I found what I thought was free wifi by the hostel, but it seems to be from elsewhere. Mystery wifi again. City of Sydney has a wifi thing somewhere and it is free.

The next step was to wander off into The Rocks markets that was extremely busy, but seemed to have little food. I wanted something to eat, but in no hurry. The markets were interesting, but nothing there that I wanted. I was also after the information centre so headed in there. I found some information to chase up and also a very helpful lady. I was able to get my Opal card and she tried looking up a cemetery location for me, but it did not seem to work for her. I wasn’t worried in the slightest, but got some print outs. I found a coffee shop though couldn’t understand the lady though she was asking me if I wanted sugar. There was plenty to see in the city and I wanted to see what I could see in the time that I have.

The museum I had my heart set on visiting was the Justice and Police museum near Circular Quay. I had gone past this place on many occasions and wanted to visit. The museum is only open on weekends so I was lucky that I was there on a Sunday. The building itself was a police station and a court house that replaced the station that was located at Cadman’s Cottage over by The Rocks. The whole area did have warehouses and living in the city was very different to today. There were heaps of crimes like the first kidnapping in the 1960s where a boy was held for ransom, but was killed and a lady known as the PJ woman I think she was called. I found it interesting when they touched on the Aboriginal history as well that involved policing. Bushrangers like Captain Moonlite and Ben Hall were mentioned though not a lot was spoken about the rangers. Safe cracking was a big part of the criminal history and told the story of how some were caught by a cop known as The Shadow though his identity was never revealed at the time. I did enjoy the visit to the museum and was worth going to.

By this time I had made my way over to the Botanical Gardens where I found the Conservatorium of Music once had been the stables built by Greenway a convict architect. It looked like a mini castle, but with a roving band of kids from school. I was late for access to the grounds of Government House by around 10 mins, but I wandered over to a seat to gaze over the harbour. During this time I had some church outreach guys come visit though I wanted them to go away. I was asked what I wanted in life that could fix anything. I told the guy that would be a beer. He was impressed as people would answer money. He had no idea what a Mid was, but he liked Carlton Draught. Not that I was telling him that was the same brand. I was asked what the church was about and I answered a community of likeminded people. He liked that too and he was soon off after a little bit of a chat about the Marine Rescue and church not being my thing. The funny thing was a vehicle was going around telling people to leave the park as it was close to 5pm. I was also getting dark. I did wander around outside the Opera House before heading back over towards The Rocks looking for food as I was hungry and didn’t want to be out for too long as I wanted an early night if I could do so. The area in front of the Opera House was once a fort, but the writing was too light to read about it.